I didn't know if I could do it. But I did it - twice. That's right, we've tried the public baths.
Let's first define public bath for my North American friends who may not have encountered this. The "sauna" or "bath" is a combination hottubs (plural), YMCA, arcade, and indoor family picnic all for the economical price of about 7 dollars for an adult or 4 dollars for a child. The glitch is that in the "hot tubs" area (which is separated by gender) its "birthday suits" only.
So while most everything about the saunas sounded good, I wasn't too sure I wanted to be the only white, slightly plump, woman running around suit-less. But Anna really wanted to try it out, so we did.
Let's pause here for a more detailed description of the kinds of services available inside the public bath/sauna. On the ladies-only floor there are rows of lockers which open onto a public area where you can hire someone for a manicure or pedicure, buy snacks, or sit around and watch tv (all nude if you like). Then you go through some glass doors into the baths area. Here there are about 4 rows of open showers, then 4 more rows of stools and low faucets with spray nozzles for "scrubbing" (and let me just say that at any given time there are at least 20 ladies and potentially their daughters scrubbing every single part of their bodies), a bit further in another open area are the 4 tables for full body massages given by very hard working women who never get to take a break. Next to all of this is the area of baths. These are huge hot tubs of various temperatures from super hot to super cold, maybe some jets in one or two but mostly not. Perhaps another 20 ladies are taking advantage of the baths to sit and relax or chat a bit. So, essentially, one might spend hours in here washing her hair, scrubbing dead skin off of each body part, rinsing in the shower or with pans of water from the baths, sitting in the baths, getting a massage, more baths or hot sauna, getting a manicure then pedicure, etc.
If desired, you can put on the gym suit they give you and go up (or down) a flight to the shared floor. Here there are more goodies! First, a huge open area with mats on the floor for families to sit and picnic together or watch television. Also, there's an arcade, maybe a weight room, a snack bar, and massage chairs. But also, there are several rooms of various temperatures to lay in to rest or nap. The room could be freezing cold or super hot - your choice. Children are running around everywhere except these rooms which are fairly sound proof and dimly lit. So, bring a laptop, play a game, or take a nap. You can do it all at the sauna - in community - while wearing your gray and white gym suit!
The first time we tried this was a few weeks ago. I have to say I found it very uncomfortable. This is just not something that I'm used to (at least not since ye olde college days in the dorm showers). Anna doesn't mind walking around nude, so that didn't seem to pose a problem. But we both got more of our share of body parts with more than 40 ladies enjoying the saunas that day. In the end, I asked Anna how she liked it. She was torn. "I liked it!" she said. "But it was rather disturbing." That about summed it up.
Here, though, is where my reflection comes in. I have to say that in my mind I kept thinking "Get over yourself. No one cares." Additionally, seeing ever age and body type has its advantages. I mean, you get to see REALISTICALLY where you're headed as you live through each stage of life. (I won't go into the details here.) But it occurred to me that American young women are so hung up about looking perfect and having the perfect bodies, but at the sauna it is quite clear that few have perfect bodies. And, in the end, how can one determine what is perfect and what isn't? We're all the same - but unique!
So, we decided to try it out again this weekend. We tried a new spot called "Sun Superland" near our apartment. This time the boys headed to their floor and we girls headed to our floor for about an hour, then we agreed to hook up in our "gym uniforms" on the family level. This time went a bit easier for me. I was able to relax a bit and enjoy the different baths. Anna seemed to have a good time, too, without being "disturbed." We liked the family time, too.
So if you happen to come to Korea, I suggest stepping out of your comfort zone and giving it a go. You may enjoy it, you never know.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Friday, February 11, 2011
Toilet vs Giant Ice Sculptures
We recently headed to China during Lunar New Year (aka Chinese New Year). This was a special treat (and very expensive, as a 1-entry Visa is $185/person from the US). We were fortunate enough to have friends who teach at an international school in Shanghai who were able to show us around and then escort us to Harbin in the far North of China for the Harbin Ice Festival.
What an amazing week we had! We did the usual things you would expect while in Shanghai. We ascended the tallest building; it stands at 101 stories. We visited the Buddhist Temple on New Year's Day participating in the burning of incense and throwing lucky coins at a humongous metal vase. We visited the market for souvenirs, especially silk. We saw the Shanghai acrobats do their acrobat thing. (Keep reading, the Toilet thing is coming. . .)
We also got to eat lots of Mexican food, oddly enough, and some Chinese food. Marvelous. One of the highlights for me personally was attending a Catholic Mass in Shanghai. (I've now worshiped in a Catholic church in the Philippines and one in China - hard to find Protestants around Asia). The service was in English with dozens of ex-pats worshiping. The church was big and COLD - we're talking NO heat. But it was a delight to sing familiar songs and speak familiar liturgy half-way around the world. (I know, still no Toilet or Giant Ice Sculptures; bear with me.)
All of that is wonderful, but I think you might be even more interested in phenomenon not usually experienced in North America. . .haggling (Wait for it! Toilets are near the end!)
Now, I've never haggled. I don't like to haggle and I don't know how to haggle. But in China (and in Korea, for that matter), haggling is an integral part of the culture. Seeing as we had an expert haggler with us at all times, Rosie, we learned a lot! And saved A LOT! First, we learned that there are 3 levels of starting points when working with the shop owners. They start with the most expensive prices for the foreigners and the cheapest for the locals. Rosie isn't Chinese, but she's lived there for 9 years and knows enough Chinese to be an effective haggler. Next, we learned that you have to show shock and disinterest at the price they give, ask for their "best price" then name your own. Finally, walk out of the store, slowly down the way and wait for the shopkeeper to chase you saying something like "okay! Okay!" (This whole process might take 30 minutes for big ticket items.) If you've done it correctly you might get called a "cheapskate" or be told "you're making me cry!" Now that you know the ropes, here are the results: Anna's traditional Chinese silk dress was originally quoted at $600 (equivalent) but Rosie worked it so I got a Silk suit jacket AND Anna got her dress for 185 Yuan ($31 USD). Brent got silk ties that would cost about $15 each in the US for $2.50 each. Yes! It's true! (Okay, okay! The toilet, I know! But I'm first going to describe the Ice Sculptures, I AM the one in control here, after all.)
After a few days in Shanghai, we flew to Harbin. Harbin, China is located far North, near Mongolia and Russia. There are many Russian influences there, and products (including Russian Vodka! Yahoo!) So, you get the idea that it is COLD! We happened to hit them during a heat wave; it was 18 degrees Fahrenheit most of the time we were there. There are several venues for the Ice Festival, but the most impressive are the Snow Sculptures and the Ice Sculptures. According to wikipedia, the snow sculptures earned a "Guinness Record of the largest snow sculpture: 250 metres long, 28 feet (8.5 m) high, using over 13,000 cubic metres of snow" in 2007. I'd say what we saw was right in that ballpark. I've never seen anything like it!
The Ice Sculpture park was even MORE amazing. The ice blocks came from their river and were configured to create huge palaces or ice slides. All lit up at night with brilliant colors. . . wow. Just WOW.
Google "Harbin Ice Festival 2011" and look for the Huffington Post for some stunning photos and videos. Additionally, we visited a restaurant/bar that was made entirely out of ice blocks, including a sculpted full-size grand piano.
After the Ice Festival and a tour of the Tiger Reserve, we headed back to Shanghai where we discovered. . . (wait for it!)
The SUPER-TOILET!
We happened to be in the 3rd tallest building in the world, sitting in the restaurant than is a floor beneath the highest observation deck in the world (100th story of a 101 story building) enjoying the view when Anna came back from the bathroom all excited. "Mom, you've got to see the toilets!" I figured this was some sort of bidet thing. "Sure," I humored her. So I went. The bathroom was befittingly posh, as expected of a restaurant that charges $8 for a Coke and a view. I opened the toilet stall and the toilet seat opened automatically! That was just the start. There was a panel on the wall with all of the available features of the bidet-toilet hybrid. I sat down. The seat was heated! Good start. Okay, so this button here washes the front, this button washes the back. This is labeled "oscillating, pulsating, rinse." This one is a dryer! Woohoo! Ah! And here is a button called "Flush." Let me tell you, you haven't experienced a state-of-the-art, technological wonder in a toilet until you've experienced this baby!
So, Toilet versus Giant Ice Sculptures. Who wins?
What an amazing week we had! We did the usual things you would expect while in Shanghai. We ascended the tallest building; it stands at 101 stories. We visited the Buddhist Temple on New Year's Day participating in the burning of incense and throwing lucky coins at a humongous metal vase. We visited the market for souvenirs, especially silk. We saw the Shanghai acrobats do their acrobat thing. (Keep reading, the Toilet thing is coming. . .)
We also got to eat lots of Mexican food, oddly enough, and some Chinese food. Marvelous. One of the highlights for me personally was attending a Catholic Mass in Shanghai. (I've now worshiped in a Catholic church in the Philippines and one in China - hard to find Protestants around Asia). The service was in English with dozens of ex-pats worshiping. The church was big and COLD - we're talking NO heat. But it was a delight to sing familiar songs and speak familiar liturgy half-way around the world. (I know, still no Toilet or Giant Ice Sculptures; bear with me.)
All of that is wonderful, but I think you might be even more interested in phenomenon not usually experienced in North America. . .haggling (Wait for it! Toilets are near the end!)
Now, I've never haggled. I don't like to haggle and I don't know how to haggle. But in China (and in Korea, for that matter), haggling is an integral part of the culture. Seeing as we had an expert haggler with us at all times, Rosie, we learned a lot! And saved A LOT! First, we learned that there are 3 levels of starting points when working with the shop owners. They start with the most expensive prices for the foreigners and the cheapest for the locals. Rosie isn't Chinese, but she's lived there for 9 years and knows enough Chinese to be an effective haggler. Next, we learned that you have to show shock and disinterest at the price they give, ask for their "best price" then name your own. Finally, walk out of the store, slowly down the way and wait for the shopkeeper to chase you saying something like "okay! Okay!" (This whole process might take 30 minutes for big ticket items.) If you've done it correctly you might get called a "cheapskate" or be told "you're making me cry!" Now that you know the ropes, here are the results: Anna's traditional Chinese silk dress was originally quoted at $600 (equivalent) but Rosie worked it so I got a Silk suit jacket AND Anna got her dress for 185 Yuan ($31 USD). Brent got silk ties that would cost about $15 each in the US for $2.50 each. Yes! It's true! (Okay, okay! The toilet, I know! But I'm first going to describe the Ice Sculptures, I AM the one in control here, after all.)
After a few days in Shanghai, we flew to Harbin. Harbin, China is located far North, near Mongolia and Russia. There are many Russian influences there, and products (including Russian Vodka! Yahoo!) So, you get the idea that it is COLD! We happened to hit them during a heat wave; it was 18 degrees Fahrenheit most of the time we were there. There are several venues for the Ice Festival, but the most impressive are the Snow Sculptures and the Ice Sculptures. According to wikipedia, the snow sculptures earned a "Guinness Record of the largest snow sculpture: 250 metres long, 28 feet (8.5 m) high, using over 13,000 cubic metres of snow" in 2007. I'd say what we saw was right in that ballpark. I've never seen anything like it!
The Ice Sculpture park was even MORE amazing. The ice blocks came from their river and were configured to create huge palaces or ice slides. All lit up at night with brilliant colors. . . wow. Just WOW.
Google "Harbin Ice Festival 2011" and look for the Huffington Post for some stunning photos and videos. Additionally, we visited a restaurant/bar that was made entirely out of ice blocks, including a sculpted full-size grand piano.
After the Ice Festival and a tour of the Tiger Reserve, we headed back to Shanghai where we discovered. . . (wait for it!)
The SUPER-TOILET!
We happened to be in the 3rd tallest building in the world, sitting in the restaurant than is a floor beneath the highest observation deck in the world (100th story of a 101 story building) enjoying the view when Anna came back from the bathroom all excited. "Mom, you've got to see the toilets!" I figured this was some sort of bidet thing. "Sure," I humored her. So I went. The bathroom was befittingly posh, as expected of a restaurant that charges $8 for a Coke and a view. I opened the toilet stall and the toilet seat opened automatically! That was just the start. There was a panel on the wall with all of the available features of the bidet-toilet hybrid. I sat down. The seat was heated! Good start. Okay, so this button here washes the front, this button washes the back. This is labeled "oscillating, pulsating, rinse." This one is a dryer! Woohoo! Ah! And here is a button called "Flush." Let me tell you, you haven't experienced a state-of-the-art, technological wonder in a toilet until you've experienced this baby!
So, Toilet versus Giant Ice Sculptures. Who wins?
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Friday, January 28, 2011
Go Pack Go! (a poem)
Here at KIS say
“The Packers”
and see what you get -
quizzical looks
shrugged shoulders
blank stares
but where I’m from say
“The Packers”
and fans will bust out into
chants of “Go Pack Go!”
The Packers are
“America’s Team”
“The Green and Gold”
“Cheeseheads”
from “the Frozen Tundra”
The Packers are 12-time World Champions
and Superbowl Champions
’66, ’67, ’96
NFC Champions 2010
and Superbowl Con-ten-dahs!
Just you wait and see!
By February 6th the world will know
the Green Bay Packers
once again!
Superbowl XLV
Here
We
Come!
Go Pack Go!
by B.
Saturday, January 15, 2011
"Superstar!"
"‘Cause we all just wanna be big rockstars
And live in hilltop houses driving fifteen cars"
-Nickelback lyrics from "Rockstar"
I can honestly say I haven't dreamed of being a rockstar since I was 15 and in love with Air Supply. However, being a Caucasian in an Asian country such as Korea sort of puts you in a position of "rockstar." Let me explain. . .
We were warned. We were told people would stare at us and want to touch us and take our picture. So we knew. But we didn't KNOW.
Upon several occasions, our kids have had their pictures taken by complete strangers. It usually goes something like this; we're in a subway station waiting for a train or in a store standing talking about something or at a tourist destination enjoying the view when a group of 3 - 5 teenage girls approach us giggling. They'll look at the kids' hair and giggle some more. Pretty soon one will come closer and use their best English to ask if they can have their picture taken with the kids. We always oblige. Sometimes they want us in the picture, too. (It's amazing how Koreans seem to carry their cameras with them 24/7.)
It goes without saying now when we go somewhere in public that at least one older gentleman or lady will pet Alec's hair. Once a week an older woman will insist that Anna take her seat, be it on bus or subway. (Elders are supposed to take priority for seating on public transportation.)
Also, whenever we enter the elevator in our building with kids between, say, seven and eleven years old, invariably they'll meekly utter "Hiyeee [hi]." When we smile and say hi back, they'll burst into giggle fits as if saying "They're spoke to me!"
All this unwarranted attention could go to one's head! Yet, I never thought about the movie star analogy until a cabdriver told me that anytime a Caucasian woman gets in his cab he feels like he's seated next to a movie star. (I'm sure he told all his buddies that night that he drove us around.)
But here's the crowning story.
One day I took the kids to a local outdoor park. I was just standing enjoying the scenery when a Korean young man about college age approached. He said hello and asked me if I spoke Korean. I told him no. He then tried his best to explain what he wanted. "Can I get a picture of your kids?" he asked. (Here we go again.) "Sure." But he wanted something else, as well. He pulled out a small wipe board and a black marker. (This is new.) His English was a bit rough, but eventually he managed to communicate that he wanted ME to write a love message to his girlfriend on the board.
I was surprised, but amused by his romantic gesture. "Are you wanting to ask her to marry you?"
"No. No!" he said.
"Do you want to tell her you love her?"
Silence.
"How about something like, 'I enjoy spending time with you.'"
"Yes!" he says. So I write the message. "Put some hearts on it too," he says.
Finally the message is done. He takes out a camera.
"Do you want me to take a picture of you with the message?" I ask.
"Yes," he nods, "but can I have your children in the picture, too?"
(There you go!) So, somewhere in Korea there is a young lady with a picture of her boyfriend holding a board with my handwriting saying "I enjoy spending time with you. Love, --------" and a few hearts while my children stand in front of him smiling.
No one has asked for autographs yet, but there's still time!
And live in hilltop houses driving fifteen cars"
-Nickelback lyrics from "Rockstar"
I can honestly say I haven't dreamed of being a rockstar since I was 15 and in love with Air Supply. However, being a Caucasian in an Asian country such as Korea sort of puts you in a position of "rockstar." Let me explain. . .
We were warned. We were told people would stare at us and want to touch us and take our picture. So we knew. But we didn't KNOW.
Upon several occasions, our kids have had their pictures taken by complete strangers. It usually goes something like this; we're in a subway station waiting for a train or in a store standing talking about something or at a tourist destination enjoying the view when a group of 3 - 5 teenage girls approach us giggling. They'll look at the kids' hair and giggle some more. Pretty soon one will come closer and use their best English to ask if they can have their picture taken with the kids. We always oblige. Sometimes they want us in the picture, too. (It's amazing how Koreans seem to carry their cameras with them 24/7.)
It goes without saying now when we go somewhere in public that at least one older gentleman or lady will pet Alec's hair. Once a week an older woman will insist that Anna take her seat, be it on bus or subway. (Elders are supposed to take priority for seating on public transportation.)
Also, whenever we enter the elevator in our building with kids between, say, seven and eleven years old, invariably they'll meekly utter "Hiyeee [hi]." When we smile and say hi back, they'll burst into giggle fits as if saying "They're spoke to me!"
All this unwarranted attention could go to one's head! Yet, I never thought about the movie star analogy until a cabdriver told me that anytime a Caucasian woman gets in his cab he feels like he's seated next to a movie star. (I'm sure he told all his buddies that night that he drove us around.)
But here's the crowning story.
One day I took the kids to a local outdoor park. I was just standing enjoying the scenery when a Korean young man about college age approached. He said hello and asked me if I spoke Korean. I told him no. He then tried his best to explain what he wanted. "Can I get a picture of your kids?" he asked. (Here we go again.) "Sure." But he wanted something else, as well. He pulled out a small wipe board and a black marker. (This is new.) His English was a bit rough, but eventually he managed to communicate that he wanted ME to write a love message to his girlfriend on the board.
I was surprised, but amused by his romantic gesture. "Are you wanting to ask her to marry you?"
"No. No!" he said.
"Do you want to tell her you love her?"
Silence.
"How about something like, 'I enjoy spending time with you.'"
"Yes!" he says. So I write the message. "Put some hearts on it too," he says.
Finally the message is done. He takes out a camera.
"Do you want me to take a picture of you with the message?" I ask.
"Yes," he nods, "but can I have your children in the picture, too?"
(There you go!) So, somewhere in Korea there is a young lady with a picture of her boyfriend holding a board with my handwriting saying "I enjoy spending time with you. Love, --------" and a few hearts while my children stand in front of him smiling.
No one has asked for autographs yet, but there's still time!
Sunday, January 9, 2011
The Philippines: A Reflection on the People
Until visiting the Philippines, I never knew much about them. I didn't really know where they were or their history or geography. Why did we visit the Philippines, an archipelago of over 7000 islands in Southeast Asia on the Pacific? Well, we'd heard a lot about it as a magnificent tourist destination with a beautiful white beach, tropical climate and inexpensive costs. Several colleagues mentioned it as their favorite vacation spot.
So we took our family of four away from the chill of freezing temps in Seoul to Boracay Island (about 4.5 hours by plane) for a two week vacation. As is typical of vacationing in the Carribean, the tourists live vastly different lives from those who are native to the land. Yes, the vacation WAS fabulous, the scenery beyond belief, the breezes and water warm, the water an amazing azure. Yes, the food was delicious and cheap. (I especially loved the fruit shakes and the crepes.) But here I would like to reflect on the disparity between the life of the served and those serving.
Our vacation cost around $4000. We find this reasonable and doable in our current situation. This includes accommodations, airfare, food, entertainment, and souvenirs for 4 people. This averages out to $289 per day. Keep this in mind as I talk about the life I observed of the Philippinos who so kindly waited upon us night and day.
Everyone who has traveled to the Philippines observes the same thing: the people are gracious, polite, and go out of their way to serve. They appear to be genuinely happy. They are dark skinned and dark haired - reminiscent of Hispanics. On Boracay Island the first thing you notice on the ride to the condo are the homes scattered along the one paved road (no stoplight or stop signs). They are somewhat hidden behind corrugated metal sheets that line the road the way a fence or sound barrier might. The living spaces mostly appear to be shacks with grass roofs. Laundry is hung to dry, dirt and dust abound. Children wander here and there amongst the abundant roosters and stray dogs. Several miles of homes are tucked behind roadside businesses with open concepts (no doors only open window wells and doorways), as is possible in a tropical setting. Businesses consist of a variety of services: pharmacies, groceries, bakeries, banks, money exchanges, fruit and vegetable stands, knick knack shops, handmade materials, toy stores (with faded and dusty kids' snorkeling masks to Barbies), a myriad of restaurants, an Animal Bite Center, a school, a Catholic Church, and gas station. Noticeably missing are any fast food joints or outlets as well as cars.
There are no cars on Boracay. All of the vehicles are designed for public transportation. By that I mean there are hotel shuttles (mostly a cab with two benches in the back - we once fit 18 people into our shuttle!), motorcycles with 1 - 3 people (driver with a helmet), and trikes. These trikes are nothing more than a glorified motorcycle with a sidecar big enough to hold 4 people. With a driver and passenger on the bike, that makes 6 people the motorcycle. Sometimes locals might hitch a ride by standing on the back, thereby making the motorcycle carry even more people. Tourists pay an average of 20 pesos per rider (roughly 40 cents USD). The drivers (all men) of the trikes seem to work this same 7 mile stretch of road 24/7. I wouldn't be surprised to learn they work 7 days a week for 15 - 16 hours breathing in diesel the whole time. Upon inquiry, one driver said he typically made 400 pesos a day (that's about $10!) I often wondered how they paid for their motorcycles, gas, and repairs! Not surprising, I saw no trikes that looked new.
Our wait staff at Alta Vista were likewise amazing. The same people seemed to be working behind the counter, cleaning rooms, or maintaining the grounds during our 2 week stay. New Year's Eve we saw the staff working and entertaining us until midnight, then up again delivering towels to housekeeping staff at 8 AM. To reinforce my observations that the locals put in long days, my friend observed that there were over 1000 people attending a 4 AM Catholic Mass the week prior to Christmas. We surmised that the only time for them to attend mass was at 4 AM, very likely having to report to work by 7 or 8 AM.
And it wasn't just the adults working. During the day young men and women would walk the beaches with their wares trying to sell the tourists hand carved wood sculptures of Mary and Jesus, shell necklaces, pearl necklaces, sunglasses, hats, fruit, icecream, etc. In the evening, about sundown, the children would work the beach. They walked the beach in a group of 4- 6 kids ranging in age from 5 - 10 years old selling handmade bracelets, ankle bracelets and necklaces. While we may have seen them as pests, this was no doubt necessary for them to help bring in income for their families.
I observed the various wares the locals would sell on the beach. Certainly some were restaurant or shop owners, but many were self-employed, doing whatever they could to make money: making and selling jewelry, carving wood into bowls or bongos, applying henna or permanent tattoos, providing massages, manicures, pedicures, foot scrubs, or transportation by trike. Others had a small 6x6 ft. space for a shop selling fruits and vegetables. Others were employees of tourism businesses providing island hopping and snorkeling, the zipline or banana boats.
Everywhere we looked, we were being waited upon by kind, smiling Philippinos who, thankfully, spoke English very well (the official languages are Philippino and English with 171 individual languages in the country, as well!) Everyone seemed to be working for a pittance ($8 for an hour body massage, $20 - $30 to feed a family of four, $50 for 4 people to island hop, $1.5 per SanMiguel beer, $5 for a sarong).
So, in closing, let me say, my vacation WAS wonderful. We got sun and sand and surf, mango and banana fruit shakes, and plenty of rest. We made good friends and celebrated the birth of Christ at the Catholic Church and rang in the New Year by watching 4 different fireworks displays on the beach. We snorkeled and ziplined and tanned and ate a multitude of buffets. More than that, we breathed fresh sea air, enjoyed the palm trees and clear blue water. But what may stick with me most is coming to appreciate another part of the world and the people that inhabit it. Our lives couldn't be any more different! Thank you to all those hard working Philippinos who helped to make our vacation special!
And to the rest of you, if you ever get a chance to visit Boracay, I highly recommend it.
So we took our family of four away from the chill of freezing temps in Seoul to Boracay Island (about 4.5 hours by plane) for a two week vacation. As is typical of vacationing in the Carribean, the tourists live vastly different lives from those who are native to the land. Yes, the vacation WAS fabulous, the scenery beyond belief, the breezes and water warm, the water an amazing azure. Yes, the food was delicious and cheap. (I especially loved the fruit shakes and the crepes.) But here I would like to reflect on the disparity between the life of the served and those serving.
Our vacation cost around $4000. We find this reasonable and doable in our current situation. This includes accommodations, airfare, food, entertainment, and souvenirs for 4 people. This averages out to $289 per day. Keep this in mind as I talk about the life I observed of the Philippinos who so kindly waited upon us night and day.
Everyone who has traveled to the Philippines observes the same thing: the people are gracious, polite, and go out of their way to serve. They appear to be genuinely happy. They are dark skinned and dark haired - reminiscent of Hispanics. On Boracay Island the first thing you notice on the ride to the condo are the homes scattered along the one paved road (no stoplight or stop signs). They are somewhat hidden behind corrugated metal sheets that line the road the way a fence or sound barrier might. The living spaces mostly appear to be shacks with grass roofs. Laundry is hung to dry, dirt and dust abound. Children wander here and there amongst the abundant roosters and stray dogs. Several miles of homes are tucked behind roadside businesses with open concepts (no doors only open window wells and doorways), as is possible in a tropical setting. Businesses consist of a variety of services: pharmacies, groceries, bakeries, banks, money exchanges, fruit and vegetable stands, knick knack shops, handmade materials, toy stores (with faded and dusty kids' snorkeling masks to Barbies), a myriad of restaurants, an Animal Bite Center, a school, a Catholic Church, and gas station. Noticeably missing are any fast food joints or outlets as well as cars.
There are no cars on Boracay. All of the vehicles are designed for public transportation. By that I mean there are hotel shuttles (mostly a cab with two benches in the back - we once fit 18 people into our shuttle!), motorcycles with 1 - 3 people (driver with a helmet), and trikes. These trikes are nothing more than a glorified motorcycle with a sidecar big enough to hold 4 people. With a driver and passenger on the bike, that makes 6 people the motorcycle. Sometimes locals might hitch a ride by standing on the back, thereby making the motorcycle carry even more people. Tourists pay an average of 20 pesos per rider (roughly 40 cents USD). The drivers (all men) of the trikes seem to work this same 7 mile stretch of road 24/7. I wouldn't be surprised to learn they work 7 days a week for 15 - 16 hours breathing in diesel the whole time. Upon inquiry, one driver said he typically made 400 pesos a day (that's about $10!) I often wondered how they paid for their motorcycles, gas, and repairs! Not surprising, I saw no trikes that looked new.
Our wait staff at Alta Vista were likewise amazing. The same people seemed to be working behind the counter, cleaning rooms, or maintaining the grounds during our 2 week stay. New Year's Eve we saw the staff working and entertaining us until midnight, then up again delivering towels to housekeeping staff at 8 AM. To reinforce my observations that the locals put in long days, my friend observed that there were over 1000 people attending a 4 AM Catholic Mass the week prior to Christmas. We surmised that the only time for them to attend mass was at 4 AM, very likely having to report to work by 7 or 8 AM.
And it wasn't just the adults working. During the day young men and women would walk the beaches with their wares trying to sell the tourists hand carved wood sculptures of Mary and Jesus, shell necklaces, pearl necklaces, sunglasses, hats, fruit, icecream, etc. In the evening, about sundown, the children would work the beach. They walked the beach in a group of 4- 6 kids ranging in age from 5 - 10 years old selling handmade bracelets, ankle bracelets and necklaces. While we may have seen them as pests, this was no doubt necessary for them to help bring in income for their families.
I observed the various wares the locals would sell on the beach. Certainly some were restaurant or shop owners, but many were self-employed, doing whatever they could to make money: making and selling jewelry, carving wood into bowls or bongos, applying henna or permanent tattoos, providing massages, manicures, pedicures, foot scrubs, or transportation by trike. Others had a small 6x6 ft. space for a shop selling fruits and vegetables. Others were employees of tourism businesses providing island hopping and snorkeling, the zipline or banana boats.
Everywhere we looked, we were being waited upon by kind, smiling Philippinos who, thankfully, spoke English very well (the official languages are Philippino and English with 171 individual languages in the country, as well!) Everyone seemed to be working for a pittance ($8 for an hour body massage, $20 - $30 to feed a family of four, $50 for 4 people to island hop, $1.5 per SanMiguel beer, $5 for a sarong).
So, in closing, let me say, my vacation WAS wonderful. We got sun and sand and surf, mango and banana fruit shakes, and plenty of rest. We made good friends and celebrated the birth of Christ at the Catholic Church and rang in the New Year by watching 4 different fireworks displays on the beach. We snorkeled and ziplined and tanned and ate a multitude of buffets. More than that, we breathed fresh sea air, enjoyed the palm trees and clear blue water. But what may stick with me most is coming to appreciate another part of the world and the people that inhabit it. Our lives couldn't be any more different! Thank you to all those hard working Philippinos who helped to make our vacation special!
And to the rest of you, if you ever get a chance to visit Boracay, I highly recommend it.
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
A Picture for President Obama
Perhaps you never knew that on Boracay Island in the Philippines,
there is a restaurant called the Obama Grill. Now you do!
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